RE: Which Tire?
You're better off with the LT due to stiffer sidewalls a probly higher air pressure. The weight rating on the LT tires you posted is still more than your rear axle weight rating so either way, you're covered. Try different brands and models of LT tires in your size, not all tires have the same weight ratings even though they may have the same size.
RE: Trucks with lift kits
Just a thought, but have folks considered how a lifted P.U.
when involved in car accident, is so high up that it's bumper can nearly "cream out" the passenger compartment of a sedan?
I rear ended a Volvo sedan at a stoplight...
I also backed over an early 1980's Chevy Citation...
I backed into a Chrysler LeBaron convertible...
I hope your driving has improved!LOL. Yes it has, fortunately. I was not long out of high school at that time. :)
RE: 1 ton in California
I have a one ton pickup I use in my business and for personal use and we have a one ton cargo van for business use as well. Only a regular class D auto driver license is required to drive a one ton and only regular auto liability insurance is required to carry on the truck. The plates are commercial and we pay extra fees based on the GVWR of the trucks. About all the commercial plate means is the state collects extra money for it and we are allowed to park in a yellow commercial vehicle loading zone if we go downtown. Big whoopie. :r
RE: GM selling Hummer, maybe more
I like that band, they put a little different twist on country music. :)
I think I prefer to out... in a Ford truck. :B
RE: Trucks with lift kits
Just a thought, but have folks considered how a lifted P.U.
when involved in car accident, is so high up that it's bumper can nearly "cream out" the passenger compartment of a sedan?
I wonder what the statistics are for accident involving mildly lifted and extremely lifted P.U.'s versus cars or even another stock P.U..
I have a feeling the stock p.u. or sedan comes out with massive damage compared to the lifted P.U.?
Our we possible exceeding or overriding some safety concerns if we can't avoid an impact with another vehicle that isn't raised up?
I realize that even stock P.U.s and SUV's of the large variety have bumper heights that don't line up very well with passenger cars.
Maybe some standardization of bumper heights could be a need. It would take some styling gymnastics to make a P.U. look macho or ok and meet these standards, but it could lower damage costs in the insurance industry, and possibly lower injuries/per capita to?
My son some years ago, had a run-in with a SUV and his Camaro. My son's Camaro hit the rear right corner of the SUV as it illegally lane changed in front of him as he was accellerating. What happened.......the SUV was so much higher than my son's stock Camaro, that the Camaro's hood went under the right rear bumper of the SUV and literally flipped the SUV on it's top. Before flipping or rolling over with no injuries, as the speed was not that fast, the SUV totally crumpled the Camaro's hood up to the front windshield with it's under-carriage. We lacked a uniform bumper height here.......and a much lighter Camaro flipped a larger SUV!Several years ago when I was alot younger, I had a '77 Chevy 3/4-ton 4x4 pickup with 9 inches of lift and big tires. It was a fairly big truck, the bedrails were about as tall as I was, though I have seen much bigger trucks driving on the road than mine was.
Anyways, I rear ended a Volvo sedan at a stoplight (talking to my friend in the truck in the next lane, not paying attention to traffic in front of me). I was creaping forward at about 3 mph when I hit the Volvo. Did $3600 of damage to the Volvo, smashed the trunk lid, both rear fenders and rear panel of the car where the tail lights are, almost up to the rear window. Didn't do a dam thing to the frontend of the truck. Maybe a slight tweak to the bumper. If there was a scratch in the chrome, I couldn't tell (already plenty of scratches).
During that same summer, I also backed over an early 1980's Chevy Citation, or maybe it was a Chevette. Anyways, some little GM ratbox. The reciever hitch tube welded to the bottom of my heavy wall pipe rear bumper caught the front lip of the little car's hood and peeled it back like a can opener, almost to the windshield. The hood latch took the radiator support wall with it, pulling all that back into the engine untill finally the latch let go. I stopped when my rear tires reached the car's front bumper. I never saw the little car behind me. When the truck wouldn't go back anymore, I looked in mirror and all I saw was the little car's radio antenna barely peeking up above my tailgate. That cost me $600, which was pretty cheap considering the damage.
Later that summer, I backed into a Chrysler LeBaron convertible. My hitch tapped the upper center of the chrome grille where the hood ornament mounts to. Put a little ding in it. The girl in the car honked the horn before I made contact, otherwise I probly would have peeled her hood back like other one. I never saw the car untill I got out of the truck to see what the commotion was about, but I did see the antenna again in the mirror and got a good idea of what was up....
RE: Trucks with lift kits
Personally, I never got the "lift for clearance" thing. Pumpkin's still the same distance to the ground without bigger tires... You lift the truck 6" and go from 31" tires to 35's, and only move the pumpkin up 2"...
Remember for each inch of DIAMETER you add to the truck's tire, you only get half (i.e. the difference in RADIUS) the additional clearance at the axle...Lifting allows greater approach and departure angles with the lowest points at the front and rear of the vehicle and also allows greater breakover angle, which keeps it from getting high-centered at the midpoint of the truck.
Sometimes a couple inches more under the axles is the difference between hanging up on a rock or going over and on your way.
For trucks with an independent front suspension, the differential increases clearance with the ground as the truck frame is lifted.
Larger diameter tires climb over obstacles easier.
Wider, larger diameter tires increase footprint for traction and floatation on soft terrain like mud, sand and deep snow.
These are all great qualities in an offroad trail rig. Not so great in tow vehicle. A truck that does double duty towing and trails, needs a compromise between the two varying sets of ideal characteristics. Compromises are tough sometimes...
RE: The Song Title Game
Don't Tell Me You Love Me -- Night Ranger, 1982, from Dawn Patrol
live concert video, 1983 - Night Ranger, Don't Tell Me You Love Me
RE: GM selling Hummer, maybe more
GM has never made any sense with all their duplicate, triplicate, quadruplicate, etc cars. I agree that eliminating Buick, Pontiac and GMC and just having Chevy and Caddy would be the wisest thing GM could do. Ok, second wisest... First wisest is to get rid of that rediculus Hummer!
Maybe most already know this but back in the day it did make sense. Up until mid-70s or so, the cars really were different.
GM's marketing plan back then was to get everyone started off in a Chevy, then move them up to Pontiac (the "performance" division), then Olds (a little more lux), onto Buick (still more lux) and ultimately to Cadillac.
Even after the mechanics of the lines basically consolidated, they still had the options and advertising geared to take advantage of the brand identity/mentality they had cultivated all those years.
Granted, now, it doesn't make sense - and I think that's what's going on now, although long overdue.Guess they lost sight of their roots. As far as I can remember, the various GM cars were all the same starting in the late 60's.
RE: GM selling Hummer, maybe more
Lesmore49, that reminds me of this song...
From the band Confederate Railroad, 1994-
Daddy Never Was The Cadillac Kind
RE: How I setup a CB in my Class C
A good ground for a CB is to use the flat metal bracket that screws onto the CB chassis and screw it onto the metal dash of the truck, removing the paint from the bracket under all the screw heads and remove the plastic washers from the mount hardware so the screws touch the metal bracket directly. I also ran a seperate flat braid ground strap from a chassis screw on the back of the CB to truck sheetmetal nearby, again removing the paint under the screw heads and using 'star' washers to ensure a good metal to metal contact. If an amp is involved, ground the chassis of the amp and CB together as well.
Your home made wood bracket for the CB does look very nice. You did some nice work to it. You probly need more ground than what you have though.
They do make the metal quick-release slide brackets for CB's that are very easy to take the CB in and out. If you use one, connect the wiring direct to the CB though, instead of going through the sliding contacts on the quick release assembly.
RE: installing a receiver hitch in short bed trucks
Do NOT install the hitch with the pin center behind the axle center when in the towing position. That is very WRONG. In front of the axle center is the correct position. It will slide back to behind the axle for manuevering at slow speed only.
RE: installing a receiver hitch in short bed trucks
Do NOT install the hitch with the pin center behind the axle center when in the towing position. That is very WRONG. In front of the axle center is the correct position. It will slide back to behind the axle for manuevering at slow speed only.
RE: Travel Trailer or Fifth Wheel ?
Quite a bit of stuff can still be hauled in the bed of a pickup towing a fifthwheel or gooseneck. The whole bed (except right where the hitch is occupying) can be used for stuff, provided you don't let the stuff stick up too much above the bedrails. Bicycles would be the main concern there, but those can be hauled on a hitch haul on the rear of the trailer, or put them inside the trailer.
